Tuesday, December 28, 2004

Signed Ruby and Diamond Vintage Designer Brooches From 1930s and 1940s

Brooches are the new "necessary accessory" this season. With this renewed interest in big glittery brooches comes excitement and appreciation for the spectacular brooches of the 1930s and 1940s. Brooches and pins, worn at the shoulder, on the waist, dead-center under the collar bone, and even on hats or chapeaux, draw the eye to the savvy dresser's desired focal point.

Our newly-acquired signed Van Cleef & Arpels brooch from the 1930s, and signed Julius Cohen brooch from the 1940s, are superb examples of glittery precious gem brooches. Although both brooches are composed of a combination of Burmese rubies and diamonds set in a botanical theme, each designer exhibits a unique style.





The Van Cleef & Arpels brooch displays a stunning array of the original red faceted Burmese rubies and white diamonds set in Paris by this firm. The vibrant gems are set in a 35 mm round platinum pin to form a flower motif, in this mint condition period piece. Oval and pear-shaped rubies with 5 carat total weight, and baguette and round-cut diamonds, with 5 carat total weight, fall into concentric circles with a slight rise in height toward the center.

Crafted for the rich and famous, the Parisian firm of Van Cleef & Arpels concentrated in platinum, diamond and colored stone pieces. Works from the 1930s are characterized by jewels in primary colors designed in a geometrical pattern, with a streamlined style.

Also composed of rubies and diamonds, the signed Julius Cohen brooch represents an entirely different look. In this 1940s brooch, smooth cabochon Burmese rubies and diamonds are embedded in 18K yellow gold to form an exquisite free-form flower-like arrangement.





Julius Cohen, a New York-based designer, worked for the firm of Harry Winston before opening his own company. His first designs were entered in diamond promotion contests sponsored by De Beers.

``We are particularly delighted with the acquisition of these two designer gemstone brooches in time for the holiday season. Brooches are a very "now" accessory, and these signed brooches, with increasingly rare Burmese rubies, are also instant heirlooms'', comments Judith Isaacson, VP, Internet Division & Style Editor, Maurice Goldman Online Jewelry.